Saturday, October 18, 2008

Betel Nut, Betel Nut, Betel Nut

My niece.. with some of the stone money in the village
The birthday boy in his thus.. with his head freshly shaved and covered with tumeric
The Centipede that tried to make friends with me in my room

Ahh... so another week of training is complete. Only four more weeks left to finish. The language is inching along at the rate of a snails pace, but I am learning more and more each day. The week ended, and once again I had another weekend in the village. I really do love this village, but it is also hard. Sometimes it just reminds me how much of an outsider I am here, but sometimes I get excited because this is my new home for the next two years. Slowly I'm getting to know more people and family, but I wouldnt yet say that I actually have friends here.

Saturday was a first birthday party. It was a really big deal because they cut the babies hair for the first time. It's a symbol of cutting the hair that you had in the womb off, so you are your own person now. They shaved the boys head, then rubbed his head with fish blood, cleaned it, then rubbed it with tumeric which is a very important thing here. So, I went to a nice party on the beach with a cute baby wearing a little red thus, a nunu crown, and a head covered in tumeric. There was more food than I know what to do with, and all very yummy. There were a ton of people there, but I couldnt help feeling alone. Even as I sat with this group or that... I don't speak the language.. and it's difficult feeling like I really belong here yet. Not to say that the people here aren't welcoming, they definately are, but it's still not the easiest at some moment.

Sunday... today... I went to church... walked home... got a 50 cent ice cream (awesome!)... went swimming... snorkeling... then sat around on the beach chatting with this group and that and chewing... yes chewing. Chewing what you might ask? Chewing Betel Nut. Betel Nut is the seeds of a certail type of palm that grows here. Everyone in Yap chews alot, and you can tell by their mouths. Usually their teeth are black or orange from lifetimes of chewing. But, it's part of socialization here, so I feel I must join in at least on occasion.

To chew betel nut you crack the nut open with your teeth, then you put lime powder on the nut that they make from some type of coral, then you wrap the nut with lime with a leaf of a pepper plant or another plant. Place the whole thing in your mouth and chew. Instantly your mouth begins to salivate and fill with spit. No worries though, you are supposed to spit. The combination of betel nut, lime, and leaf turns dark red, so you are spitting dark red. It kind of relaxes you, kind of makes you dizzy, it's hard to describe, but saturdays and sundays I chew when I'm offered. Apparently I'm a novice when it comes to chewing, because sometimes they say... "V" your drunk from chew... I guess my face gets a little red when I chew... but oh well, at least I'm trying to enjoy part of this custom. Don't worry, I brush my teeth extra long after everytime, so my teeth don't turn orange.

So everyone be prepared... If you come to Yap.. You'll be asked to chew... it's your decision, but don't be surprised, because betel nut is king here on my small island in the Pacific... and it isn't that bad

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

I understand that the custom of chewing betel nut is an invitation to sit down and meet the person that offers the nut and the fixings
can you decline without offending?
My trouble is going to be sitting on the ground. I have been spoiled by years of sitting in chairs and now that I am 71 its hard to get up or down gracefully. Will the natives judge me for my clumsiness? O well maby I should prctice a lot before I come and visit. Stone money is a long story I must do some resurch. Take care love DAD

Dreamer said...

Of course you can decline without offending, just be thankful for the offering. "Danga Kammagar" means "no thankyou" Just sit and chat instead, they know many "mercans" don't chew.

People often have benches that they sit on or kuyays..pavilion things, so you won't always be on the ground..and even if many are sitting on the ground, they'll usually offer a seat to you if it's available. For church there are a few pews for older people to sit in the back. I think they'll just love that you are willing to come and experience village life.