I'm Moving to Yap!!!!!!

The Group Going to Yap and our Program Assistant

Just a quick note to let everyone know I got my permanent placement. On Saturday I'm moving to Yap, where I will complete my last 6 weeks of training. I'll be living in Gagil, Yap, and teaching 7th/8th grade english, while also helping the school put together a library. Lots of fun!

Please take note... my address has changed, please send any mail or packages to my new address in Yap! Write more once I'm there.

This little piggy didn’t make it… the story of a funeral and a feast

Well, luckily for me this weekend was a very busy weekend in Madolenihmw. There were many things going on, but the biggest thing this weekend was a funeral. Not just any funeral, but the funeral of the 2nd highest ranking person in the municipality. The nanmarke (excuse the spelling, I’m just guessing) is the highest ranking person, and he is like the king here, next is the nanken, and he is the one who died, he was 80 years old and had been sick for a while. Titles and rank mean a lot here in Pohnpei, and with his death everyone who has a title that was under his gets moved up to the next level. Needless to say, this funeral was a very big deal, even though all funerals here are a big deal. Here they last 4 to 5 days, but in some of the outer islands funerals can last up to 40 days.

I had the chance to go to the first two days of this particular funeral. The first night was interesting. There was a building, where his coffin was, and he was placed up on a table because of his title. Women would come into the room, get onto the floor and weep and wail into towels around his coffin. It was very important that he was higher up than the people mourning him, so they would crawl to his coffin on their knees. Then there was a large “nas”, open building raised from the ground around the edges, where men were making Sakau (a drink made from the roots of a special plant, known as Kava in other areas), and then many benches where we sat, ate soup, and sat some more for four hours.

Pigs being prepared for the local stone oven at the Funeral

Yams... 8 men to carry Yams for the funeral

Saturday was the real excitement though, we arrived at 9:30am and found a nice shady spot to sit. As I sat and watched men started coming in with huge pigs tied by their feet to poles which they carried on their shoulders to an area where an “ohn” was made. An ohn is a local oven made with firewood that heats rocks really hot, then the food is wrapped in leaves and cooked with the rocks. The pigs were live when they were brought in, but that didn’t last for long. As soon as they took them to the area, they placed them on the ground and stabbed them in the heart with machetes. Now, I don’t know if any of you have ever seen animals slaughtered for food, but let me tell you. Stabbing a pig in the heart is not the quickest or easiest way to kill a pig, but this is tradition, so this is how it is done. Blood shoots up like a whales blowhole, and then soon it is burned with a blowtorch to burn the skin, then it is cut open and gutted before being thrown onto the oven. There were at least 30 pigs that I counted at this funeral. Another impressive thing was the yams that were brought in as offerings, some took eight men to carry, and there were tons brought in, and just as much Sakau. The day involved more sitting, observing, eating, a service, a burial, and a lot of ceremony happening in the “nas” which we were not allowed to enter, because this was reserved for the chiefs and those with titles. Everything that was brought to the funeral, was brought into the nas where it was divided and given out according to your title and rank. The higher your title, the more yams, pig, and sakau you got.

The Waterfall in Madolenihmw

Well, by 2pm, we were ready to move to the next adventure, a quick swimming trip to a beautiful waterfall here in Madolenihmw to cool off and then to a feast that was being held at one of the other trainees host families home. It was exciting and fun. Here, I was actually able to sit in the Nas, but I had to make sure to always face either inside or towards the head of the nas where the chiefs were sitting. Never sit with your back to the chiefs, it’s disrespectful. There was dancing, music, food, and more Sakau. I had coconut oil rubbed on my arms as a welcome symbol, and was given a marmar (headband thing) made of a dish towel, and a large piece of cloth as part of all the festivities which my nohno is going to make into a shower skirt for me.

Making Sakau
The ceremony of making Sakau is beautiful. First the plants are brought in, and the roots are cut off and cleaned with water and coconut husks. Then the cleaned roots are placed on large stone tables, where a circle of men pound them with rocks using a beautiful rhythm as they pound the roots over and over. Then the roots are placed in hibiscus bark with water where they are twisted and squeezed into coconut shells. It looks and tastes like muddy water, but acts as a sort of sedative. The shells are passed first to the chiefs, then to those with titles, then to the others. As soon as I took a sip, my tongue and mouth began to tingle and go numb, like going to the dentist and getting novacane, but it only lasts a minute or so. I only had a sip, so I can’t speak for the true effects of Sakau, but it was definitely a neat experience.

Once again the roasted pigs and dogs were brought into the nas to be divided by the chief. Dogs…. Yes… I said dogs… Three dogs to be exact, and five pigs. I was really taking it all in when a man handed me a large pig leg to give to my “nohno” (mom), and then came the dog… or dogs I should say, because as I turned around the man in front of me came up with his share… TWO ROASTED DOG HEADS!! Well, not expecting to turn around and come face to face with two roasted dog heads I guess he must have seen an expression of surprise on my face because he held them up to me, said “Woof.. Woof” and started laughing, and placed them in his bowl in front of me with both heads facing me on the nas. Suddenly, I wasn’t so hungry, so as a large slab of roasted dog ribs was offered to me I politely declined. Maybe I’ll try dog one of these days, but I just couldn’t eat dog ribs with two dog heads staring at me… even if they say it’s better than pork.

No...that is not a pig head... Roasted Dog Heads at the Feast
And this my friends was just a small taste of funerals and feasts, Pohnpeian style!! Gotta love it!

Life in Madolenihmw… inspired by the lizard family in my room

Nan Madol Ruins

Pahpa shaving coconut in our outdoor kitchen for coconut milk
Nohno peeling Bananas for dinner outside out house

Hanging out with some of the neighborhood kids at my home in Madolenihmw

Moving into a stranger’s home is never an easy thing to do, especially if they speak, dress, and act very differently from what you are used to. However, moving to Madolenihmw has been a difficult yet exciting and interesting thing to experience. We were each assigned host families to live with while we finish phase 1 of our training for the first 3 weeks. My nohno (mom) and pahpa (dad) greeted me at the training center, and carted me off to their home. Just the drive to the home alone had me in awe. This place is incredibly beautiful. The trees, the wildlife, the feeling is all so special. I walk 45 minutes each way from my home to training, Monday through Friday.

Let me describe to you my home here. First off I have a mom, dad, and 3 sisters in 3rd, 6th, and 9th grade living in my house, and there are always many of the neighbor’s children spending time with us at the house, so there is rarely a quiet moment here. My family has a simple concrete and tin home in the jungle. In our yard we have coconut, banana, breadfruit, limes, sour apple, and taro growing. We have ten piglets, one big mama pig, two dogs, a puppy, many chickens and roosters, and LOTS OF ANTS! Some of them even like to join me in my bed, which I haven’t quite adjusted to yet. The home has electricity, but because of problems in Pohnpei with the electric company there have been many power outages since I’ve come to live here. We do not have a phone or internet, so letters are my only means of communication with the world back home.

Our house has three rooms. One where I sleep (Peace Corps policy that we have our own room), and the others are where the rest of the family sleeps, eats, sews, and lives mainly on the floor. My nohno is a seamstress, so she has a sewing machine and makes beautiful Pohnpeian skirts that she sells in Kolonia. We have a small outdoor kitchen where we cook with woodfire, a water seal outhouse made of tin behind the house, and another tin building where I take bucket showers and wash my clothes.

We eat rice practically with every meal. And we eat with our hands, and I’m getting quite good at eating without silverware. The local women always laugh when they see me, the like to see the “menwie” (white people) taking on their culture. Sometimes we have homemade pancakes for breakfast, which is quite the treat, but the main staple food is rice. We’ve eaten sashimi tuna five out of the past 7 days for dinner. The other nights dinner has been chicken stew. I’m grateful for my host family’s generosity, but right now it would be great to have a salad. All the rice is starting to wear on me, and I’m only three weeks into this journey.

Moving here so far away from all the people I love has been hard, but I’m working to keep myself positive. Unfortunately we’ve already lost one of our 28 trainees, who I know we will all miss. It is tough being here, and I know it will take lots of strength for all of us to complete service.

A few things that cause a mix of emotion here in Pohnpei:

1. Wearing a skirt all the time…. They’re pretty, they’re cool in the hot climate, but sometimes shorts are nice… and while walking 45 minutes in the heat wearing a skirt while sweating like crazy, unless I wear bike shorts… it can be really uncomfortable…. I LOVE MY BIKE SHORTS!!! Best thing I packed so far!

My Friend Kate and I outside of our training site, in our local skirts


2. Bathing in a bucket shower with cold water…. The cold water is refreshing, it’s nice to be outside and hear the birds while you shower, but it’s hard to get really clean with cold water while wearing a skirt and dumping cups of water over my head and it’s different having my little sisters talking to me while I’m in the shower. I have a love/hate relationship with the bucket shower… some days it’s the best thing since sliced bread… some days I’d kill for a relaxing bath, but I actually like the feeling of the cool water.

This is where I bucket shower and wash my clothes


3. The food in Pohnpei… I absolutely love the local food here, it’s awesome…the fish, breadfruit, bananas, yams, and other fruit are awesome, yummy, and fresh, but unfortunately so many people here have grown to love imported foods like white rice, canned meat, and ramen with koolaid (Yes… my little sister eats uncooked ramen dipped in koolaid powder for a snack) and it can be difficult to keep a healthy diet if your family depends on these imported foods.
Go Local :) Eat a Banana… and Be Happy!

The Real Way to Cut Sashimi... with a Machette!


Despite the ups and downs of living and adjusting to another home in a far away island, the main thing is that I’m still happy and healthy, even if I do miss everyone back home lots. Madolenihmw is unlike any place I’ve ever been and probably ever will go, but I’m happy to get this opportunity to live with such a welcoming family while I’m training.

"Farting Fish" or "Good Morning".... better get it right

Fun fact of the day.... the way to say good morning in Pohnpeian is Menseng Mwau. I was so happy to learn this yesterday, and excited to use it. But foreigners beware, if you pronounce it Mensing Mau... you are actually saying "Farting Fish" As I get ready to move with my host family tommorow, I can only imagine the looks on their faces as I wake up, get breakfast, and tell them "Farting Fish"..... oh my this language learning can be complicated. Luckily I was forewarned about farting fish, and I will hopefully figure out how to say Good Morning. That being said, I'm sure there will be many times that I say the wrong thing, and many times that the locals will laugh at my attempts to speak their language. I guess this is something I should prepare for, being laughed at untill I figure things out. Good thing I know how to laugh at myself also, because lets face it, it's pretty funny waking up by telling someone "Hello...Farting Fish"

In less then an hour we leave for Madelenhmw and I will meet my host family. I'm nervous and excited. This is going to be emotional, exciting, hard, fun, trying, scary, and out of this world all at once. I won't be updating this for the next two weeks at least because I'll be nowhere near internet or phone, but I will be writing on my computer so that once I do get internet again I can share my experiences at my first host family. I'll be writing tons of letters though, so it will be great to resurrect the lost art form of real letter writing.

Exciting news... in one and a half weeks I'll know my permanent site... Where shall I end up.. main island... outer island... Yap... Kosrae... Chuuk... Pohnpei.... Palau?? Only time will tell, so exciting, so exciting. Can't wait to update!

Just a short note to Steve... I love you! I just have to go into the wild for a bit, but I'll be back in contact soon.

A note to friends and family, if you could please start saving those silica gel packs that you get when you buy new products like shoes etc. in the boxes, I would appreciate it. I'm going to put them in my dry sacks with my electronics to keep the moisture and humidity from killing my stuff. So you can send them to me later at my site.

Well.. goodbye for a while... i now go... "Into Madelenhmw" Wish me luck!

Skirts, dogs, and showers.. Pohnpei style

The Breakfast of Champions... Coconut Milk... Fresh Banana.. and canned Ham.. Yum!

Proof I'm really here

A view from the plane.. Majuro Atoll in the Marshall Islands

Finally Here at Last

Read the sign... State Department of Education Pohnpei

Kaselehlie (hello in Pohnpeian)

Today has been another exciting day of shots and groups and wandering around Kolonia trying to soak in as much information as I can. This place is a mixture of absolute beauty and 3rd world differences. For instance... while walking today to the health office I had to step over intestines. I'm not sure what type of intestines they were or why exactly they were located on the sidewalk of a busy town road but there they were. I almost stepped on them with my flip flops which would not have been good at all. Another volunteer who has been here a year said it was most probably a dog that had eaten another dog after a fight. That's where the expression "dog eat dog" comes from, incase you are wondering. Dogs here are treated very differently than in the U.S. They are not pets. Not that they aren't owned, but they do not come inside, they are not pet and groomed like we do in the U.S. Here they can be vicious. It is not uncommon for someone to kick a dog or throw stones at it. Mainly because of protection. Like I said I've been warned many times that the dogs will attack, will chase, will bite. I've even been advised to always walk with a rock in my hand just incase I encounter a nasty one on my walk somewhere. Now I'm not saying that all dogs in FSM are vicious, but some are bad enough that it is something to be cautious about. The main point for me is... don't just go up and start trying to pet a dog.. it might not be a good idea.

I bought a beautiful handmade skirt for 10 dollars today. Here it is inappropriate for women to show their thighs or shoulders, so they advised us to purchase at least one locally made skirt. They are so beautifully made. Very colorful, with lots of stiching and cutouts. I'm sure that I will return home with many skirts. I don't mind wearing skirts all day, however it will take some getting used to when I have to wear a skirt while I'm bathing. Yes... since while we are in the small village for training our host families do not have indoor showers, we will have to learn how to bath in a skirt. What you do is pull the waistband of the skirt up over your chest, wearing only the skirt, then use a bucket with water to bath. Usually the outdoor bathing area has some walls, but is definately not truly private. So, I'll be bathing in a skirt. This should be an interesting experience.

Another difference that I'm about to experience is that tonight I will be taking the last hot shower I will have untill Mid-service conference after my first year when they bring us all together at a hotel. So tonight I'm saying goodbye to the feeling of hot water, and hello to the lifestyle of cool water bucket showers. It shouldn't be too bad though, considering it is hot here all the time.

Well... this seems like more than enough info to share today. Just know that I am happy and think this place is going to be incredible. The fresh sashimi tuna and coconut and banana are also pretty darn sweet. Kaselelhei (also goodbye)

Spam Sushi in Pohnpei

First stop

First Time I've seen a warning about spitting Betel Nut on the floor

I have officially made it to Micronesia. I'm in Kolonia, Pohnpei the capital of the Federated States of Micronesia. The trip here was amazing. Long but amazing. We stopped twice in the Marshall Islands, once in Kosrae, then finally to Pohnpei. The views were incredible from the plane as we landed. The water here is so blue and I could see the reefs and the beautiful trees. Breathtaking is the best way to put it. The Peace Corps staff and some of the current volunteers met us at the airport, then we headed to the hotel where we will stay today and tommorow. They had snacks for us... Fresh bananas (really small sweet ones), coconuts with straws for the coconut milk, sushi rolls made with SPAM (excellent I must say), taro root chips, and other yummy treats.
Our 3rd Stop.. Kosrae
I just finished my interview with the Peace Corps staff about my placement. They wanted to know my goals and what I thought about an outer island placement. I've thought about that alot since accepting my invitation to serve here. Honestly, I'll be happy wherever I'm place, but I'm really intrigued about the idea of serving on one of the more traditional states like Yap. I'de love to be in a place where the dress, customs, and everyday activities are still the traditional native ones, and this is what I told them. My only issue with being on an outer island, besides lack of communication, would be the fact that I have my egg allergy. If I ever did have a bad reaction I would be more nervous on an outer island than a main island about getting treatment if I need it. But, wherever they send me I'll take smiling.

For dinner the food was amazing... two giant platters of the freshest sashimi (raw marinated) tuna that I've ever eaten was my favorite along with this awesome fish banana coconut milk soup.. but we also had taro and breadfruit, local staples.. and Rice and more sushi rolls. Yum!

Tommorow we have our shots and medical interviews and our host family conference. Then Monday we go to our first host families where we will really begin the training. I still can't believe that I'm here. It seems like a dream, a very nice dream, but it's real and I feel so thankful to be here. I know that this is going to be an incredible experience. I just know it! Wish me luck, because Micronesia I'm all yours!

Aloha from Honolulu!

Plane rides are long for PCTs Finally in Honolulu

Just a quick note from the beautiful island state of Hawaii. I don't actually feel like I'm in Hawaii though since all I've seen was the airport and airport hotel. The palm trees and humidity give it away a bit though. The trip here was 5 1/2 hours to fly from Los Angeles.. but we had 5 hours to wait at the airport before our flight. Needless to say we are all tired and bed will be excellent shortly. We have to check out at 3:30am tommorow, to get to the airport for our 10 1/2 hour flight to Pohnpei. (With 3 stops, two in the Marshall Islands and one in Kosrae before Pohnpei)

Day 2 Continued

Our Training Group: Micro 75

Staging is officially complete, and now I'm enjoying the last part of my time in Los Angeles, before Hawaii.

The plan for the next few days and weeks is as follows:
-tommorow we head to Hawaii and stay overnight
-Sept 12 and 13 travel to Pohnpei for two days at a hotel where we will get shots, etc.
-The Next 3 weeks- we will be moving to a small rural community in southern Pohnpei called Madolenihmw, where we will have the first phase of our training. During this time we will be living with host families and they have told us that we should not expect to have access to internet or phone. So, no worries everyone if you don't hear from me. I'll be busy with training 6 days a week, soaking in everything I can about this new place I'll be living. (And taking lots of pictures!) I can still recieve mail during this time though..hint...hint...

After the second week they will give us our permanent site assignments where we will be working for the next 2 years. They will divide our group into five parts: the four states of Micronesia, Pohnpei, Chuuk, Kosrae, and Yap, and Palau, which is a seperate country from the FSM but is included in our group.

After the first 3 weeks, we will split up into our five groups to begin phase 2 of training in the main islands that we will be serving.

So much to think about, but I'm sure it will all be amazing. Thanks for all the support and love!

Staging Day 2: Grassroots Level U.S. Ambassador

Me Leaving Denver..... my pack all ready for 2 years

Day Two of staging has continued to be helpful and exciting. We began the day learning about how to deal with unwanted attention when we are in country. We watched a video and discussed things that may come up as we live and work in Micronesia. I am sure that as a white, blond, American with piercings and tattoos living in a small rural village on the other side of the world on an island, I will get some attention that I might not get in the U.S.. I think that the important thing for me to do is keep positive and make the best out of each situation. I want to keep an open mind and heart and deal well with things that come up.

Another topic that came up in staging was the fact that each of us will have the opportunity to be acting as Grassroot Level Ambassadors to the U.S. in some ways. (not officially of course) Wow! It is a lot to think that people may judge what they know of America based on their interactions with me. There are so many misconceptions about people's culture, and hopefully interactions with me in my community will be a way to start a dialogue about differences in culture. Hopefully I can show a side of the Americans that is caring, culturally sensitive, inquisitive, and thoughtful. Hopefully I will do America proud.

Later today we'll go over more details about our trip and preparing, then tommorow morning we board our flight to Hawaii. I can't believe this is the last night I'll be sleeping on the mainland of the U.S. From now on, Verina is an island girl... an island girl that hopes to make the Peace Corps, her friends and family, and America proud as I work and live in Micronesia.

Staging in Los Angeles

I arrived in Los Angeles today to begin my Peace Corps Staging. Staging is basically two days where they tell us about the logistics of our assignment, we meet the other volunteers, go over information about safety, and community development.
There are 28 of us in my group going to Micronesia. 27 are here in Los Angeles and one person will be joining us in-country that is being moved out of Georgia where her program was shut down due to the recent war troubles with Russia. Everyone seems really nice, and it is refreshing to be with a group of people who share some of the same dreams and aspirations as I do. The group is from all over the country from New York to Hawaii, and I think that over the next two years some of these people will grow to be lifelong friends. Hopefully when I'm in Micronesia they will be the people I know I can turn to for friendship, advice, and help if I'm stressed or need some connection with my home country.

It was very hard saying goodbye. Especially to my Steve.. and you can believe that getting onto the airplane took a lot of guts. It still doesnt seem real yet. I don't think it will seem real untill I step off the plane in Pohnpei. Then, on the other side of the world, it will be real. Untill then it just seems like some sort of dream. Like we're all here for summer camp or something, but this is real! I signed papers... it's official... I am now officially a Peace Corps Trainee.

During the next two months I'll be learning and soaking in as much information as possible, so that in November I can begin my real service to the community. Hopefully I will become accepted into my host family and community, and hopefully I can make some positive change, while at the same time learning and growing into a much more informed world citizen.

So that is that... tommorow is another day of staging in Los Angeles, then the next day to Honolulu, and finally Micronesia on the 12th. Wish me luck!